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What is Lens Flare
Lens flare happens when light enters the lens at a certain angle and scatters inside the glass elements. This scattered light often appears in photos as spots, streaks, or a washed-out glow. It’s most common when you’re shooting into a strong light source like the sun or a bright bulb. Flare can either ruin a picture or bring out a certain mood—depending on how it’s handled.
Why It Happens
Every camera lens is made up of multiple glass elements. When strong light hits the lens directly, some of it reflects off these surfaces instead of going straight to the sensor. These reflections can create visible shapes and haze. The more elements in your lens, the more chance for flare. Coatings help reduce it, but nothing eliminates it. It’s part of how lenses behave under harsh light.
Types of Lens Flare in Photography
There are two main types of lens flare: visible artifacts and haze. Artifacts are those clear, often colorful circles or lines that show up in the image. Haze, on the other hand, is a washed-out look that lowers contrast and softens details. Some flares look like orbs, some like stars, and some stretch across the frame. The shape and style depend on your lens and how the light hits it.
When It’s a Problem
Flare can be a problem when it’s unplanned. It might cover a person’s face or blur the main part of your image. It can flatten the photo by removing contrast or adding colors you didn’t want if you’re doing product photography, portraits, or anything where clarity and detail matter; flare can get in the way. In these cases, it’s something to avoid, not include.
When It Adds Style
Sometimes, flare looks great. It can bring a soft glow, dreamy feel, or a cinematic edge. It works especially well in backlit scenes, sunset portraits, or urban night shots. Used the right way, it gives images emotion and warmth. Some photographers build their style around it, turning what used to be a mistake into a feature. That glow can turn a plain photo into something memorable.
Gear That Affects Lens Flare
Lenses vary a lot in how they handle flare. Older lenses tend to flare more because they lack modern coatings. Prime lenses often flare less than zoom lenses. Wide angles catch more light at the edges and show more artifacts. Even filters—like UV or ND filters—can increase flare if they reflect light back into the lens. Hoods help by blocking stray light, especially from the sides.
How to Control It
One easy way to reduce flare is by using a lens hood. Even your hand can work as a shield if the light is strong and direct. You can also move your angle slightly. Often, just shifting your body or camera a few degrees gets rid of unwanted glare. Keeping your lens clean helps, too—dust and fingerprints catch and scatter light more than a spotless surface would.
Another method is positioning. Don’t shoot straight into the sun unless you want to flare. Put the light source behind something—a tree, a building, or your subject. This blocks some light while keeping the glow.
How to Use It Creatively
To add flare on purpose, shoot with the sun low in the sky—during golden hour is best. Let a sliver of the sun peek around your subject or shoot through glass or objects that scatter light. Adjust your aperture. Smaller apertures (like f/16) create starburst effects. Wider ones (like f/2.8) give rounder glows and streaks.
You can also move your camera slowly to catch light at different angles. Keep shooting. Flare changes fast, so a burst of shots helps you capture the right one.
Post-Processing Lens Flare
If you get a flare by accident, some of it can be fixed in editing. Tools like the clone stamp or healing brush in Lightroom or Photoshop can clean up spots. You can also adjust contrast and blacks to bring back a punch if the haze lowers it.
On the flip side, you can add flare during editing, too. Many editing apps have built-in flare effects. They look better when used lightly—too much and the photo feels fake. Some flares come as overlays you can drag into your image. Just match the light direction, and it can look natural.
Real vs. Artificial Flare in Editing
There’s debate in the photo world about using fake flare. Some purists prefer real light, while others see editing as part of the art. The key is consistency. If your scene has clear light direction and shadows, your added flare should follow the same logic. If it doesn’t, it stands out. Real flare has imperfections that fake ones don’t—things like uneven shape and soft edges.
If you’re going for realism, real flare might serve you better. But if you’re making posters, digital art, or stylized work, artificial flare gives more control and no risk of ruining your original shot.
FAQs
Can lens flare damage my camera?
No, lens flare doesn’t harm your camera. It’s light hitting your lens. Only prolonged direct sun exposure—like leaving your camera pointed at the sun for minutes—can risk sensor damage.
Does lens flare happen in phone photography?
Yes, especially with newer phones that have multiple lenses. Bright lights at night or direct sun can cause streaks or orbs in phone shots, too.
How can I avoid lens flare in portraits?
Use a hood, block the sun with a prop or your subject, and watch your angle. Also, slightly overexposing the background to minimize distractions.
Why do some photos have a rainbow flare?Why do some photos have a rainbow flare?
Rainbow flare happens when light bends and splits inside the lens, much like a prism. It’s more common with coated lenses or when using filters that reflect color.
